Wednesday, July 29, 2009
3 weeks to go!
Countdown...3 weeks until I leave for a week in the redwoods and brazil camp! I will spend a week feeding my soul with samba, brazilian jazz,dance classes, forró, more samba, natural gourmet meals that I don't have to cook or wash dishes for, samba de raiz pagodes at night, 3am churrascos, more samba, samba reggae....and surrounded with like minded people the whole time! I won't have any computer access and will sleep in a tent....I need this at least once a year, and have been going almost every year for around 10 or 11 years.
Saturday, February 28, 2009
I fell again
After I returned home from hearing that we won, I went home to chill a little before the celebration that I knew would be happening. I was excited though and almost flew to the quadra. I saw Vania, with whom I confirmed plans regarding my private samba dance lesson, which I was very excited about...she was the director of passistas for Mocidade, and an excellent choreographer as well. I turned away from her and entered the quadra from a different door than I usually take. Just inside the quadra, I saw a kid who held his arms out for a congratulatory hug, I liked this kid's sweet energy and went to happily hug him, and, next thing I knew, my hands were in front of me and I was trying to break a very clumsy fall over some big metal frame of the door that I'd never noticed before. No time to even think about the rolling technique! I was on the ground and he was helping me up and asking me if I was ok. Of course I said I was ok. I think I will always say I'm ok unless my leg somehow fell off from the fall. I went into the quadra, washed my legs off and noticed that I had a huge bump forming on my knee. I also started noticing that my foot felt funny. I didn't want anything to be wrong, so I tried to ignore it. I tried to talk myself into feeling so positive that nothing would really be wrong. After about half an hour, I saw that the bateria was going to play. I then realized that I didn't bring earplugs. Don't listen to anyone that says earplugs are for sissies and non-brazilians. True, the little kids would giggle and point at mine sometimes, but guys from the favela wear them as well. They say the same thing I do....'I don't want to become deaf'. There are plenty of ritmistas who are youngish and are already hard of hearing....could be their jobs as well, but I'm not going to sacrifice my hearing. Since I also left the house without my emergency toilet paper...why is it that quadras never have any? I couldn't rely on that either. I was seriously considering tearing a R$5 bill in half and using that when I realized that people were eating burgers from somewhere, and they had to have napkins....yes! they did. All set now, I went back into the quadra kind of limping. There was no way I was missing playing for the celebration, so I played for about 2 hours. What an exuberant crowd. I wanted to play all night! After a while I finally just couldn't deny anymore that my foot hurt when I put any pressure on it, so when we took a long break, I snuck out (uma saída à francesa hehe...to leave without saying goodbye to people)...I didn't feel like explaining. Brazilians either want you to tough things out, OR they want to make a huge deal and rush you to the hospital, I've noticed. I wish now that I'd said something because I went to walk home to put ice on my foot, but couldn't because it hurt so much so I took a taxi. I ended up staying on my bed for two days...I couldn't walk on my foot. It's better today; I'm hoping hoping hoping for a miracle so I can take that private class with Vania. I needed to get a lot done these last few days before I leave, but couldn't....I also needed to slow down some I guess.
Unidos played in Padre Miguel for the community and I missed it. I really wanted to connect with the gang before I go. I was so frustrated yesterday that I shed a few angry tears. I didn't want my trip to be cut short, but as Brenda put it, 'at least it was at the end!' and as Bruno's mom put it, after they returned from their beach house (oh yeah, I was alone and unable to walk for those two days)...'well at least it was after the parade!' .....how true!
Unidos played in Padre Miguel for the community and I missed it. I really wanted to connect with the gang before I go. I was so frustrated yesterday that I shed a few angry tears. I didn't want my trip to be cut short, but as Brenda put it, 'at least it was at the end!' and as Bruno's mom put it, after they returned from their beach house (oh yeah, I was alone and unable to walk for those two days)...'well at least it was after the parade!' .....how true!
Unidos de Padre Miguel WON!
We won our division and will go up to the next division, grupo de acesso!!!!!
"This happens once a year!"
I love carnaval. As Bruno put it when we were entering the sambodromo, with a huge smile on his face, "This happens once a year!!!" I will probably always love carnaval.
As with all things you love, you've got to take the bad with the good.
One annoying/good part of parading is your costume. I went to Unidos Quadra 3 times to try to pick mine up. It wasn't their fault....they were told they'd be ready, then they wouldn't be. On the other hand, you don't have to pay for it. If you are in the bateria, they give it to you. You never know if it'll be a cool fantasia (costume) like Unidos' fantasia was this year, or like the one I had one year...tan and brown. And it was waaaay too big on me. You also have to worry about the shoes. Actually, I don't worry about them anymore. I know that they'll be too big, they always are, but I figured out that if I wear the right chinelos inside the shoes, they'll be just right (or a little tight) and springingly comfortable. The fantasia shoes are usually hard thin plastic soled. You also have to think about getting the whole thing home, (headpiece, shoulder piece, skirt, polyester non-breathing jumpsuit, arm and leg decorations) especially if you don't have car, or know anyone who has a car. It's heavy and large and 100 degrees out. And you don't live next door. For me, the biggest annoyance is the cabeça (the headpiece). I have a little head with slick hair. I've never had a cabeça that fits properly. They are usually way too big, and revolve around on my head. If they're not too big, they are too tight and either give you cuts or a huge headache. I actually prefer too tight. The one I had last tuesday for Unidos parade was the worst I've ever worn. People who've parade LOTS said the same thing. They weren't made for a head or something. They wanted to fall off your head to the back. In order to keep it from falling, I had to tip my head forward and down, but needed to see the directors hands, so I was peering up through my eyelashes the whole time (when I didn't have my head sideways to keep the f%*&** on!
A good part was going to sapucai with the gang from the quadra on the bus. What a blast!
I think I'll insert the email I wrote about it to the Lions right here:
(If you're a Lion, this is a repeat!)
Yes, I played last night on sapucai for Unidos de Padre Miguel from 1:30 am to 2:30 am. I went to the avenue with the bateria on a bus from the quadra...what an experience! Get together a bunch of young guy musicians who've been ingesting who knows what for hours while we were waiting to leave (4 hours), and you've got a loud, exuberant busload. There was aformentioned ingesting, joking, beating on any available surface, singing and an almost fight. It was a blast! We got to the concentração, and waited a whole bunch more. Some changed into our costumes, some went and drank some more. Guys were peeing everywhere and anywhere, us girls at least went to some nearby bushes. How is it that they (most of them anyway) can still sound good after drinking? I don't know, but maybe they'd sound even better if they didn't...who knows? Our costumes looked great, sorry, I didn't get any picures....I spent almost the whole time before we started playing trying to get my headpiece to stay on my head. It was the worst headpiece in history. It looked fabulous, but the person who designed them was never in a bateria. It was tall, with these candelabra on the side. The shoulder pieces also had candelabra on the tops, so when your neighbor turned around to look at the bateria often as did mine, or anyone walked by you, their candelabra of either the head or shoulder would either knock into yours, thereby knocking your (in my case, too big) headpiece almost off), or get entangled. A few of the larger headed guys were complaining afterwards that it hurt because it was too tight. The rest of us were complaining because they were too loose. It didn't help that the cord to tighten them was nylon of the slipperiest sort. I finally got a strong guy to tie mine just before we entered the avenue, but it started slipping around on my head 15 minutes later. I had to parade with my head lowered and trying to look up through my eyelashes at the director, or with my head sideways, trying to keep it on. Other than the *^%*# headpiece, it was great. We heard the crowd yelling, "É Campeâo!" " É Campeâo!" " É Campeâo!" (the champion) when we were leaving the avenue...nice!
As with all things you love, you've got to take the bad with the good.
One annoying/good part of parading is your costume. I went to Unidos Quadra 3 times to try to pick mine up. It wasn't their fault....they were told they'd be ready, then they wouldn't be. On the other hand, you don't have to pay for it. If you are in the bateria, they give it to you. You never know if it'll be a cool fantasia (costume) like Unidos' fantasia was this year, or like the one I had one year...tan and brown. And it was waaaay too big on me. You also have to worry about the shoes. Actually, I don't worry about them anymore. I know that they'll be too big, they always are, but I figured out that if I wear the right chinelos inside the shoes, they'll be just right (or a little tight) and springingly comfortable. The fantasia shoes are usually hard thin plastic soled. You also have to think about getting the whole thing home, (headpiece, shoulder piece, skirt, polyester non-breathing jumpsuit, arm and leg decorations) especially if you don't have car, or know anyone who has a car. It's heavy and large and 100 degrees out. And you don't live next door. For me, the biggest annoyance is the cabeça (the headpiece). I have a little head with slick hair. I've never had a cabeça that fits properly. They are usually way too big, and revolve around on my head. If they're not too big, they are too tight and either give you cuts or a huge headache. I actually prefer too tight. The one I had last tuesday for Unidos parade was the worst I've ever worn. People who've parade LOTS said the same thing. They weren't made for a head or something. They wanted to fall off your head to the back. In order to keep it from falling, I had to tip my head forward and down, but needed to see the directors hands, so I was peering up through my eyelashes the whole time (when I didn't have my head sideways to keep the f%*&** on!
A good part was going to sapucai with the gang from the quadra on the bus. What a blast!
I think I'll insert the email I wrote about it to the Lions right here:
(If you're a Lion, this is a repeat!)
Yes, I played last night on sapucai for Unidos de Padre Miguel from 1:30 am to 2:30 am. I went to the avenue with the bateria on a bus from the quadra...what an experience! Get together a bunch of young guy musicians who've been ingesting who knows what for hours while we were waiting to leave (4 hours), and you've got a loud, exuberant busload. There was aformentioned ingesting, joking, beating on any available surface, singing and an almost fight. It was a blast! We got to the concentração, and waited a whole bunch more. Some changed into our costumes, some went and drank some more. Guys were peeing everywhere and anywhere, us girls at least went to some nearby bushes. How is it that they (most of them anyway) can still sound good after drinking? I don't know, but maybe they'd sound even better if they didn't...who knows? Our costumes looked great, sorry, I didn't get any picures....I spent almost the whole time before we started playing trying to get my headpiece to stay on my head. It was the worst headpiece in history. It looked fabulous, but the person who designed them was never in a bateria. It was tall, with these candelabra on the side. The shoulder pieces also had candelabra on the tops, so when your neighbor turned around to look at the bateria often as did mine, or anyone walked by you, their candelabra of either the head or shoulder would either knock into yours, thereby knocking your (in my case, too big) headpiece almost off), or get entangled. A few of the larger headed guys were complaining afterwards that it hurt because it was too tight. The rest of us were complaining because they were too loose. It didn't help that the cord to tighten them was nylon of the slipperiest sort. I finally got a strong guy to tie mine just before we entered the avenue, but it started slipping around on my head 15 minutes later. I had to parade with my head lowered and trying to look up through my eyelashes at the director, or with my head sideways, trying to keep it on. Other than the *^%*# headpiece, it was great. We heard the crowd yelling, "É Campeâo!" " É Campeâo!" " É Campeâo!" (the champion) when we were leaving the avenue...nice!
Unidos de Padre Miguel
I've been practicing a lot with Unidos lately and they've amped up rehearsals....boy, this is like a job! We've been having the ringers join us lately, but they are very welcome. A lot of them played for Mocidade when I first came to Padre Miguel, so it was really good to see old friends. These people are the cream of the crop in Rio! One girl was chosen to play tamborim for Mangueira when they opened the bateria up to women. What a joy playing in front of tamborins that swing so hard! If I could only stay here longer......
Things are accelerating....you can feel it in the air. Carnaval is almost here!
Things are accelerating....you can feel it in the air. Carnaval is almost here!
Grupo Revelação
Yes, my lovelies, I did get to see them...sort of. I was indeed at the same place they were, but there were so many other people in between us, I can actually see them much better on my video of them! Kinda like being at a blazer game. I wasn't at the back or anything, but I wasn't in front where I usually like to be and was cramped and couldn't dance that much, but just the thought of being there was thrilling. I've liked them for a long time and was really hoping that they wouldn't do a lot of their 'romantico' songs, and thank goodness, they didn't! They did a lot of pagode de raiz and songs of theirs that I love. AND it only cost $5 reais...I'm not kidding. Around carnaval time, the Terreirão do Samba (located just next door to Sapucai) has these great samba shows for almost nothing. What a great city Rio is! Oh, another thing. Since there was no way I could find Tara Bianca and Claudinho in that crowd, I was solo. Some brazilians at a table near me adopted me, invited me to share their food and chairs....what great people Cariocas are!
Parading with Tamo Junto
Well, Sunday finally got here...I'm going to parade with the best bloco in the west (Zona Oeste of Rio de Janeiro), Tamo Junto in Folia. 'we're together in revelling' ...bad grammar, but you get the idea! There is at least one other bloco named tamo junto, and maybe one that is tamo junto EM folia, so I'm sure that's why they say IN folia. Anyway, I was told that we would parade at 3, so being the gringa that I am, I didn't want to miss anything, I was there at 2:30, waiting....and waiting.....finally about 4pm, we played for O Globo, and listened to the activist politician who is underwriting the group and the whole pre-carnaval party speak for a while. Then we took a looooong break until about 6, and played for half an hour in place then paraded for about an hour and a half....it was pretty great, I'd been one of the people following along two years ago, now I was part of the bateria! Because this went so late, I missed seeing Beija Flor's last technical rehearsal at sapucai, and at the time it bummed me a little. Now that I look back on it, this was a real experience, an active thing I did; not just observing and trying to pick up some way another baterias' caixas or surdos play...I played WITH the tamborins, surdos and caixas....
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Three Pauline moments
Being out of tune with the universe:
I'd been kind of wondering when I'd do my Rio embarrassing fall down in front of a lot of people that I do. Don't think about stuff you don't want to happen...it'll happen! I was rushing down my street one night to a rehearsal, thinking about how I'm going to make an escape from the sweet and really friendly ladies that are always sitting on the sidewalk in front of their house...I had been in Botafogo with Sue & John for the past week. I usually stop and talk everyday with them.
I knew they'd want to chat for a while but I was in a hurry. I was deep in thought about that and tripped over a speed bump. They call them Quebra-Molas (suspension breakers), but I call them Quebra-Paulinees now. So, this speed bump not only has a bunch of yellow lines on it, but it has a spotlight on it from the street lamp...it was very visible. It's in full view of not only those ladies, but all the neighbors to every side, who were also out on their sidewalks. Now, remember, I'd been wondering in Rio when I was going to fall, but had also been thinking while in portland about how the next time I fall, I'm going to see if I can roll and minimize injury. Well, it pretty much works! I tripped and rolled and jumped up at the end like a gymnast. I heard a smattering of surprised laughter and amazement at first, but they changed it really fast into, 'are you ok?' I was super embarrassed, and said airily, after I laughed a little, 'oh yes, it's nothing, how are you guys?' I really did think I was ok. I got about a block away and saw some blood running down my leg. I scraped my knee and have a big old scab now, but other than that, the rolling really did work!
Being in tune with the universe:
My friend Brenda Bratton (and old friend of many of you dear readers!) had emailed me telling me that she'll be arriving in Rio on friday the 6th of Feb.
Now I'm going to repeat the Lions email I sent:
HI I just wanted to relate a cool little thing that happened on sunday. I'd gone to a party for Xuxa yesterday, sunday. I then went with Jacare and Marko of marko mallets to a bloco rehearsal that they were going to play in. I didn't stay there because I wanted to go to sapucai just because I can never get enough. It had also rained really hard on us at the bloco, but I had a feeling it would stop, and it did. I went over to sapucai, stood near the first recuo (where the bateria stays and plays while a predermined part of the school goes through.) to listen to Unidos da Tijuca, a really good bateria. Tijuca left the first box and was still playing, on it's way to the 2nd recuo. I was tired from the heat, rain and the end of my cold and thought that I'd just go home....it was just a random time, not the beginning or end of anything; I was just in a mood. I get to the metro, and am sitting there kind of without energy, when I look up and see Brenda (yes, our Brenda) throwing something in the garbage. She'd emailed me telling me a while back telling me that she'd arrive friday and asked for my cell number, which I sent. I sent my OLD cell number though. I didn't know at the time that I'd have a new one by the time she arrived. I sat there for a while trying to think of something witty to say, couldn't, so I just walked up to her and said "you didn't call me!" The look on her face! It was great! She kept saying that she knew I was there in that huge crowd of people somewhere and she expected to see me.
Jay replied to the email with, "That is fantastic. What a great story. You in the flow. That's why, in my opinion, it happened like that."
I agree.
first you're King of the world, then you just want to get home
I'd arranged my day so that I could make it to the last rehearsal for Tamo Junto, the very cool bloco I'm playing in tomorrow. It's always supposed to start at 6, but I knew no one would start until 8-ish, so I timed it to arrive around 7pm. I set off with my Tamo Junto shirt and chocalho. I was getting an unbelievable reception on my way to the rehearsal! It was like I was Obama or something (they LOOOOVe him here). People who'd kind of noticed me before or maybe never saw me before were waving, saying the equivalent of you go, girl!, asking questions, or just smiling and giving me the thumbs up. I guess the community really loves their bloco! It has been written up and O Globo is going to be at our bloco parade tomorrow for their article on blocos in Rio, so no wonder they're proud. I was feeling great mostly because I like to smile and have smiles returned and it also felt great to be so accepted by so many of the people who lived there. Still smiling, I got within site of the rehearsal hall, and was struck with uncertainty...where are all the cars and people? Is this saturday? I distinctly remember not one, but two people saying goodbye to me last week and saying, so I'll see you next saturday? They were kind of drunk, now that I think about it. Well, I walk around the place and hear someone cleaning. I asked him what was up and he said, no, last week was the last rehearsal! I'm sure someone probably said it at last week's rehearsal, but I wasn't paying attention. I was probably drinking beer, dancing to blackee music and showing American moves to the brazilians. All I could think was, I don't want to do a walk of shame back through all the well wishers....what was I going to say, I'm so clued in that I didn't know we weren't going to rehearse today?
I ended up going to a supermarket near the rehearsal hall, doing some grocery shopping and ignoring the looks I got for having a chocalho in my cart. I took another route home and tried to be invisible so no one would ask me anything. It worked.
I'd been kind of wondering when I'd do my Rio embarrassing fall down in front of a lot of people that I do. Don't think about stuff you don't want to happen...it'll happen! I was rushing down my street one night to a rehearsal, thinking about how I'm going to make an escape from the sweet and really friendly ladies that are always sitting on the sidewalk in front of their house...I had been in Botafogo with Sue & John for the past week. I usually stop and talk everyday with them.
I knew they'd want to chat for a while but I was in a hurry. I was deep in thought about that and tripped over a speed bump. They call them Quebra-Molas (suspension breakers), but I call them Quebra-Paulinees now. So, this speed bump not only has a bunch of yellow lines on it, but it has a spotlight on it from the street lamp...it was very visible. It's in full view of not only those ladies, but all the neighbors to every side, who were also out on their sidewalks. Now, remember, I'd been wondering in Rio when I was going to fall, but had also been thinking while in portland about how the next time I fall, I'm going to see if I can roll and minimize injury. Well, it pretty much works! I tripped and rolled and jumped up at the end like a gymnast. I heard a smattering of surprised laughter and amazement at first, but they changed it really fast into, 'are you ok?' I was super embarrassed, and said airily, after I laughed a little, 'oh yes, it's nothing, how are you guys?' I really did think I was ok. I got about a block away and saw some blood running down my leg. I scraped my knee and have a big old scab now, but other than that, the rolling really did work!
Being in tune with the universe:
My friend Brenda Bratton (and old friend of many of you dear readers!) had emailed me telling me that she'll be arriving in Rio on friday the 6th of Feb.
Now I'm going to repeat the Lions email I sent:
HI I just wanted to relate a cool little thing that happened on sunday. I'd gone to a party for Xuxa yesterday, sunday. I then went with Jacare and Marko of marko mallets to a bloco rehearsal that they were going to play in. I didn't stay there because I wanted to go to sapucai just because I can never get enough. It had also rained really hard on us at the bloco, but I had a feeling it would stop, and it did. I went over to sapucai, stood near the first recuo (where the bateria stays and plays while a predermined part of the school goes through.) to listen to Unidos da Tijuca, a really good bateria. Tijuca left the first box and was still playing, on it's way to the 2nd recuo. I was tired from the heat, rain and the end of my cold and thought that I'd just go home....it was just a random time, not the beginning or end of anything; I was just in a mood. I get to the metro, and am sitting there kind of without energy, when I look up and see Brenda (yes, our Brenda) throwing something in the garbage. She'd emailed me telling me a while back telling me that she'd arrive friday and asked for my cell number, which I sent. I sent my OLD cell number though. I didn't know at the time that I'd have a new one by the time she arrived. I sat there for a while trying to think of something witty to say, couldn't, so I just walked up to her and said "you didn't call me!" The look on her face! It was great! She kept saying that she knew I was there in that huge crowd of people somewhere and she expected to see me.
Jay replied to the email with, "That is fantastic. What a great story. You in the flow. That's why, in my opinion, it happened like that."
I agree.
first you're King of the world, then you just want to get home
I'd arranged my day so that I could make it to the last rehearsal for Tamo Junto, the very cool bloco I'm playing in tomorrow. It's always supposed to start at 6, but I knew no one would start until 8-ish, so I timed it to arrive around 7pm. I set off with my Tamo Junto shirt and chocalho. I was getting an unbelievable reception on my way to the rehearsal! It was like I was Obama or something (they LOOOOVe him here). People who'd kind of noticed me before or maybe never saw me before were waving, saying the equivalent of you go, girl!, asking questions, or just smiling and giving me the thumbs up. I guess the community really loves their bloco! It has been written up and O Globo is going to be at our bloco parade tomorrow for their article on blocos in Rio, so no wonder they're proud. I was feeling great mostly because I like to smile and have smiles returned and it also felt great to be so accepted by so many of the people who lived there. Still smiling, I got within site of the rehearsal hall, and was struck with uncertainty...where are all the cars and people? Is this saturday? I distinctly remember not one, but two people saying goodbye to me last week and saying, so I'll see you next saturday? They were kind of drunk, now that I think about it. Well, I walk around the place and hear someone cleaning. I asked him what was up and he said, no, last week was the last rehearsal! I'm sure someone probably said it at last week's rehearsal, but I wasn't paying attention. I was probably drinking beer, dancing to blackee music and showing American moves to the brazilians. All I could think was, I don't want to do a walk of shame back through all the well wishers....what was I going to say, I'm so clued in that I didn't know we weren't going to rehearse today?
I ended up going to a supermarket near the rehearsal hall, doing some grocery shopping and ignoring the looks I got for having a chocalho in my cart. I took another route home and tried to be invisible so no one would ask me anything. It worked.
NOOOOOO! The city of Rio shutting down Saara?!?
Kind of a sensational headline, but that's how I first heard about it. You may be asking yourself (if you didn't read my previous entries or have never been to Rio), who cares? what is Saara?
Well, first of all, it is, at various times: my favorite time waster, the place to hate with a passion, the place to love for the good deals I find, the place to hate for the jittery unsettled hot humid over stimulated way I sometimes feel there, the place that, if I'm already in a bad mood, can make me almost psycho, the place to love for the old rotted buildings, the place I can laugh out loud by myself at the commercial that BLASTS over sound systems in the street; the one where they have a woman purposely (I hope!) sing extremely off-key, I assume to get people's attention...it works! Oh, did I mention that it's LOUD and CROWDED?
Well, I was told that the next time I come to Rio, it won't be there....what!!! I ran to get a newspaper to see for myself. It turns out that the city is planning on starting work on extending the Metrô line One to Barra da Tijuca, (rich people land). It's going to cost R$2.8 billion, and the city of Rio says that the land that Saara (also known as Uruguaiana or the Camelódromo) is on and other parcels are worth R$700 million to R$1billion. Now, they SAY that the legitimate businesses will be relocated somewhere nearby, on Presidente Vargas...hmmmm....we'll see.
The association SAARA (Sociedade de Amigos das Adjacências da Rua da Alfândega)...hehe...I just realized after all this time that it wasn't named after the land of Bedouins and their propensity for trading! had a meeting wednesday and are, of course, worried. They say that the area supports 10 thousand people, directly and indirectly involved. They're worried about unemployment. If the project is approved, they'll fight it in court, one of the founders said. He said they have their whole lives there.
Like I said, we'll see.
Well, first of all, it is, at various times: my favorite time waster, the place to hate with a passion, the place to love for the good deals I find, the place to hate for the jittery unsettled hot humid over stimulated way I sometimes feel there, the place that, if I'm already in a bad mood, can make me almost psycho, the place to love for the old rotted buildings, the place I can laugh out loud by myself at the commercial that BLASTS over sound systems in the street; the one where they have a woman purposely (I hope!) sing extremely off-key, I assume to get people's attention...it works! Oh, did I mention that it's LOUD and CROWDED?
Well, I was told that the next time I come to Rio, it won't be there....what!!! I ran to get a newspaper to see for myself. It turns out that the city is planning on starting work on extending the Metrô line One to Barra da Tijuca, (rich people land). It's going to cost R$2.8 billion, and the city of Rio says that the land that Saara (also known as Uruguaiana or the Camelódromo) is on and other parcels are worth R$700 million to R$1billion. Now, they SAY that the legitimate businesses will be relocated somewhere nearby, on Presidente Vargas...hmmmm....we'll see.
The association SAARA (Sociedade de Amigos das Adjacências da Rua da Alfândega)...hehe...I just realized after all this time that it wasn't named after the land of Bedouins and their propensity for trading! had a meeting wednesday and are, of course, worried. They say that the area supports 10 thousand people, directly and indirectly involved. They're worried about unemployment. If the project is approved, they'll fight it in court, one of the founders said. He said they have their whole lives there.
Like I said, we'll see.
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Saturday
I just returned from the blastiest blast of a night. I'd spent the afternoon inside, partly due to the heat and the fact that I'd like to completely get over this cold, plus, there were gun shots for about an hour in a favela near here around 4pm. I was supposed to go to a rehearsal 
next to the favela, but wanted to wait a while to see what was up. It turns out that the police entered the favela looking for bandidos or traficantes (drug dealers) in a caveirão looking for and shooting at traficantes. A caveirão is an armored vehicle adapted for use in the military or police force. The word refers to a skull, which is the emblem on the side of the vehicle used by BOPE (Batalhão de Operações Policiais Especiais), familiar to anyone who has seen the brazilian film Trope de Elite). I heard from a friend of Renato's who lives in Vila Vintem that the military police like to go in there and terrorize people in their caveirãoes and it sucks. I can understand. Who would like to live in a place where the police go in every now and then to root out the bad guys, but maybe and unfortunately innocent people are killed because of balas perdidas (stray bullets) It happens too often, I hate to say. 
On the other hand, you can't just say 'bad police' because in a way, these traficantes are terrorizing their own neighborhoods. They become rich and powerful, but at the same time attract the police with their caveirãoes and guns. The regular people who live there just want to have a peaceful life and a safe place to live. They see the trafficantes minding their own business, for the most part, and they see police as instigators of gunfire violence. Trafficantes who invade other favelas start plenty of gunfire as well, but police here are often brutal; they have a bad reputation. I've seen it myself.
A lot of people at the rehearsal, who are largely residents of V.Vintem, were in strange moods tonight at first, but beer, dancing and playing music have a way of relaxing a person! I got there early and heard an all women pagode group with a guy in black (to be kind of unobtrusive I guess!) playing a guitar in the very back on the edge of the stage. They had a banjo, cavaquinho, tantan, pandeiro, surdo, and reco-reco. They all sang and that was the part that needs some work. It wasn't bad, but there wasn't a stand out strong voice. Their voices all had a similar girl sound, and no one sang high or low, or raspy.... I talked to them afterwards, they were excited that there is a group of all women in the US. I sat with the ritmistas of the bateria and we all had beer and danced to cds of american music...they love it and wanted me to dance like we do in the US. I didn't have to be asked twice! In the bateria, I played hard and held my own. Those chocalho players I played with are so good...I'm happy. Taking life as it comes and enjoying what is right in front of you is part of what I learn here.
next to the favela, but wanted to wait a while to see what was up. It turns out that the police entered the favela looking for bandidos or traficantes (drug dealers) in a caveirão looking for and shooting at traficantes. A caveirão is an armored vehicle adapted for use in the military or police force. The word refers to a skull, which is the emblem on the side of the vehicle used by BOPE (Batalhão de Operações Policiais Especiais), familiar to anyone who has seen the brazilian film Trope de Elite). I heard from a friend of Renato's who lives in Vila Vintem that the military police like to go in there and terrorize people in their caveirãoes and it sucks. I can understand. Who would like to live in a place where the police go in every now and then to root out the bad guys, but maybe and unfortunately innocent people are killed because of balas perdidas (stray bullets) It happens too often, I hate to say. 
On the other hand, you can't just say 'bad police' because in a way, these traficantes are terrorizing their own neighborhoods. They become rich and powerful, but at the same time attract the police with their caveirãoes and guns. The regular people who live there just want to have a peaceful life and a safe place to live. They see the trafficantes minding their own business, for the most part, and they see police as instigators of gunfire violence. Trafficantes who invade other favelas start plenty of gunfire as well, but police here are often brutal; they have a bad reputation. I've seen it myself.
A lot of people at the rehearsal, who are largely residents of V.Vintem, were in strange moods tonight at first, but beer, dancing and playing music have a way of relaxing a person! I got there early and heard an all women pagode group with a guy in black (to be kind of unobtrusive I guess!) playing a guitar in the very back on the edge of the stage. They had a banjo, cavaquinho, tantan, pandeiro, surdo, and reco-reco. They all sang and that was the part that needs some work. It wasn't bad, but there wasn't a stand out strong voice. Their voices all had a similar girl sound, and no one sang high or low, or raspy.... I talked to them afterwards, they were excited that there is a group of all women in the US. I sat with the ritmistas of the bateria and we all had beer and danced to cds of american music...they love it and wanted me to dance like we do in the US. I didn't have to be asked twice! In the bateria, I played hard and held my own. Those chocalho players I played with are so good...I'm happy. Taking life as it comes and enjoying what is right in front of you is part of what I learn here.
Don't try to fool John!
I forgot to mention a very important discovery John Jenness made while he was here. We'd gone to hear Amaro's band, then they (sue and john) joined me at Moyseis' show, when John realized that both bands used a dubbed tantan background track! OMIGOD! We couldn't believe it! These groups are soooo good, yet they 'cheat'! I had a feeling that it's common, and Bruno and Michelle both confirmed it in a very unconcerned nonchalant way, "oh, yeah, everyone does that around here"...whaaaa? John said that he first noticed at Amaro's gig that the tantan player's hands weren't playing what John heard. Then he went to Moyseis show....there was a tantan sound with no tantan player!
Thursday, February 5, 2009
I finally did my 3rd Tourist thing and liked it
Sue and John had to catch their plane monday night, so in the afternoon, once they were basically done packing, they decided that they had time to go to Santa Teresa on the Bonde (tram). I'd been avoiding it because I went once (walking) and while I thought the buildings old and beautiful, it seemed a little too aware of it's quaint-ness. Sue REALLY seemed to want to go, so seeing that I was feeling too sick to care about whatever I might be doing, I thought, 'why not go and make the best of it'. We went to wait for the bonde, which turned out to be interesting. First, there was the guy who I started talking to in the line for the bonde. He'd been waiting in line for 10 minutes before we got there. He was a character. He was a young Israeli guy who just finished college and was treating himself to South America. He said Israel is so small that there is no where to travel to in his own country, so they wait until they finish either university or army, and go abroad. He'd already done the 'favela' tour which horrifies me, but whatever, and the Christo (Christ Redeemer, one of the new 7 wonders of the world). At the Christo, he mentioned that he didn't stick his arms out to the side like the statue like everyone does for photos because he's Jewish. I thought that amusing because when we went there yesterday, I'd wondered about that same thing. He was interesting in a weird way. He told us that everything is ALWAYS on time in Israel and that they would protest quite vocally the delays and the lack of concern by the perpetrators here in Rio. He couldn't believe that cariocas just put up with it.
We stood there in line for a while and I told him that cariocas don't mind waiting that much sometimes because they have a good time talking to people. He didn't get that we were having a good time talking. He must have had a good time because I kept laughing at stuff he kept saying, and people always like that.
Ok, finally our turn to board the bonde. The bonde gang waited a little while to get going because they wanted to fill every inch of the bonde and also the conductor had to walk around or something first (the Israeli guy mentioned the first tram delay was because the conductor was exhibiting the same behavior.) Once we got going, I was very sorry that I wasn't hanging on the sides. I almost asked the girl next to me who was doing it if she wanted to sit and I'd hang. It seemed super thrilling...you go on overpasses that are have a little wire fencing between you and the street below. You squish by walls that are inches from your bunda. That's what had concerned me before, but if a brazilian bunda can get through, my little disappearing bunda (it sucks, I'm losing weight again) can for sure. I'm going to do it before I leave.
Sue wanted to get off to walk around. There are some beautiful and amazing homes up there. It was good, I'm glad I went.
Good, now I'm done with the tourist sites. Glad I can now say yes, I have seen blank and blank and blank. (I do have to admit that I was a little bit choked up when I first saw the Christo statue when we were approaching from the back.) Jardim Botanico: it is somewhere I will say, yes I've been, but I'll go again! (we didn't see any monkeys when we went. apparently, there was a monkey virus that went around 3 weeks prior and killed 'em all.) I like monkeys.
We stood there in line for a while and I told him that cariocas don't mind waiting that much sometimes because they have a good time talking to people. He didn't get that we were having a good time talking. He must have had a good time because I kept laughing at stuff he kept saying, and people always like that.
Ok, finally our turn to board the bonde. The bonde gang waited a little while to get going because they wanted to fill every inch of the bonde and also the conductor had to walk around or something first (the Israeli guy mentioned the first tram delay was because the conductor was exhibiting the same behavior.) Once we got going, I was very sorry that I wasn't hanging on the sides. I almost asked the girl next to me who was doing it if she wanted to sit and I'd hang. It seemed super thrilling...you go on overpasses that are have a little wire fencing between you and the street below. You squish by walls that are inches from your bunda. That's what had concerned me before, but if a brazilian bunda can get through, my little disappearing bunda (it sucks, I'm losing weight again) can for sure. I'm going to do it before I leave.
Sue wanted to get off to walk around. There are some beautiful and amazing homes up there. It was good, I'm glad I went.
Good, now I'm done with the tourist sites. Glad I can now say yes, I have seen blank and blank and blank. (I do have to admit that I was a little bit choked up when I first saw the Christo statue when we were approaching from the back.) Jardim Botanico: it is somewhere I will say, yes I've been, but I'll go again! (we didn't see any monkeys when we went. apparently, there was a monkey virus that went around 3 weeks prior and killed 'em all.) I like monkeys.
Monday, February 2, 2009
In between last week's sapucai and yesterday's sapucai
I have had some week while Sue and John are here. I have a horrendous sinus and chest cold to prove it! Let's see if I can remember some highlights.
Monday night we went to Arlindo Cruz show at Teatro Rival with Amaro and many friends of Xuxa...amazing! After that, Sue, John and I went to Lapa with Amaro and saw some great chorinho. We couldn't keep up with him and left before he played pandeiro with them.
Tuesday...Bruno and Michelle took us to possibly one of the best bars in the world, Salvação in Botafogo, where they live. Their food is exquisite, the beer icy cold and to top it off, a pagode friend, Taylor, from portland walks in and stands at the end of our table....if I hadn't been sitting, I would've fallen over! She's going to be staying in brazil until july....lucky girl!
Wednesday, we went first to hear Amaro play percussion for a great band in Lapa. The singer was really good. Sue and John stayed to hear two sets of Amaro, but I high tailed it next door to Moyseis Marques show, a great performer with great voice and great band. Stayed out reeeaaaally late. I met Moyseis at brazil camp last august. I danced samba all night, but think I got the cold from the air conditioning between sets. Moyseis told me that he'd gotten a cold because of that. It was so good to see him. I'm going to take Jorge to Moyseis' show on some wednesday before we both return to the US.
Thursday, we were supposed to go to Santa Tereza with Amaro, but Bruno wanted to go to Grande Rio to get a rehearsal in before their technical rehearsal on sunday....there was no way I was going to miss that! We went, got to see the bateria from above, (which turned out to be the only place to hear anything!) They've built a grand huge quadra that is just tooo big. The sound is awful in there. I didn't take my camera because I didn't want any added weight hanging off my shoulder in my purse...I forgot that grande rio has some of the best dancers...not passistas, just regular people....usually little girls and travestis (transvestites). Oh well, no video again. I guess it's just as well, I learn a little more each time by just observing the feel and time.
Friday
Amaro and his mother, a journalist photographer, took us to Jardim Botanico. I'd never been there before. I don't usually like tourist spots....big dummy me! His mother knows the gardens inside and out and got us in free. I kept forgetting I was in the middle of Rio!
Friday night
We sat on Bruno's couch and Sue, John and Bruno had lots of beer while we showed bruno 2 dvds that John found of musical and comedy moments from Saturday Night Live from various decades...Bruno loved it!
Saturday
Got up EARLY to catch the metrô to Centro, then from there, we caught an Expresso to Padre Miguel. We needed to get to the instrument factory by 11am, and we did it. We spent some time there, and then went to Frango Chic, probably one of the best places to eat in Zona Oeste. They give you huge amounts of REALLY good rotisserie chicken, vinagrette (olive oil, onion, white wine vinegar, or whatever kind you want, tomato, cilantro), the BEST french fries, and a 'torre da cerveja' (beer tower) they bring you this glass (or plastic) tube with another metal tube inside that has ice in it to keep the beer cold. (the ice doesn't get into the beer). It looks like there are 40 glasses of beer in this thing, but it holds only 8 or so.
Sue and John got a taste of Padre Miguel in over 100 degree weather. They probably want to stay far away from now on!
Sue and John also got caught in a tropical thunder and lightning storm on Thursday just after they'd bought an alfaia and rebolo...I have to admit that it was kind of funny running behind John as he ran with his alfaia on his head. Part of it was that I'd never seen him run before. Thank goodness they'd both bought cases. It was weird that once we got onto the Metro, we were the only ones soaking wet. Even the other passengers legs were dry.
Saturday night we were on our own. We were exhausted from the heat and long bus ride, but I heard from Moyseis that there was going to be carnaval in Lapa for free that night. I'd also read about it, so we went. Rio Maracatu was great, we wanted to get close, so we braved the crush. It became way more fun for me when the rain came and cooled us off, and when they launched into songs I actually know. It is a thousand times more fun then! At the end as we were waiting for the final band to start, Moyseis saw me out of thousands of people. I got to meet his pretty wife. We left after a while, I saw some cops being disrespectful to a father and son, but as Bruno said, they probably did something wrong and there is no room in the jails.....so the cops had to make them think twice before they do (whatever) again. I still didn't like the attitude of those cops though. Sue and John had their first hotchee doggees XTudo (with everything). They loved 'em, in fact, since they had beer left over, they got a hamburguer XTudo as well!
Forgot Sunday day!
We went to the beach where John got a sunburn on his legs solely from the reflection off the sand, and then went to the place I've been putting off going to...O Cristo Rendentor.....truly amazing!!!!
Monday night we went to Arlindo Cruz show at Teatro Rival with Amaro and many friends of Xuxa...amazing! After that, Sue, John and I went to Lapa with Amaro and saw some great chorinho. We couldn't keep up with him and left before he played pandeiro with them.
Tuesday...Bruno and Michelle took us to possibly one of the best bars in the world, Salvação in Botafogo, where they live. Their food is exquisite, the beer icy cold and to top it off, a pagode friend, Taylor, from portland walks in and stands at the end of our table....if I hadn't been sitting, I would've fallen over! She's going to be staying in brazil until july....lucky girl!
Wednesday, we went first to hear Amaro play percussion for a great band in Lapa. The singer was really good. Sue and John stayed to hear two sets of Amaro, but I high tailed it next door to Moyseis Marques show, a great performer with great voice and great band. Stayed out reeeaaaally late. I met Moyseis at brazil camp last august. I danced samba all night, but think I got the cold from the air conditioning between sets. Moyseis told me that he'd gotten a cold because of that. It was so good to see him. I'm going to take Jorge to Moyseis' show on some wednesday before we both return to the US.
Thursday, we were supposed to go to Santa Tereza with Amaro, but Bruno wanted to go to Grande Rio to get a rehearsal in before their technical rehearsal on sunday....there was no way I was going to miss that! We went, got to see the bateria from above, (which turned out to be the only place to hear anything!) They've built a grand huge quadra that is just tooo big. The sound is awful in there. I didn't take my camera because I didn't want any added weight hanging off my shoulder in my purse...I forgot that grande rio has some of the best dancers...not passistas, just regular people....usually little girls and travestis (transvestites). Oh well, no video again. I guess it's just as well, I learn a little more each time by just observing the feel and time.
Friday
Amaro and his mother, a journalist photographer, took us to Jardim Botanico. I'd never been there before. I don't usually like tourist spots....big dummy me! His mother knows the gardens inside and out and got us in free. I kept forgetting I was in the middle of Rio!
Friday night
We sat on Bruno's couch and Sue, John and Bruno had lots of beer while we showed bruno 2 dvds that John found of musical and comedy moments from Saturday Night Live from various decades...Bruno loved it!
Saturday
Got up EARLY to catch the metrô to Centro, then from there, we caught an Expresso to Padre Miguel. We needed to get to the instrument factory by 11am, and we did it. We spent some time there, and then went to Frango Chic, probably one of the best places to eat in Zona Oeste. They give you huge amounts of REALLY good rotisserie chicken, vinagrette (olive oil, onion, white wine vinegar, or whatever kind you want, tomato, cilantro), the BEST french fries, and a 'torre da cerveja' (beer tower) they bring you this glass (or plastic) tube with another metal tube inside that has ice in it to keep the beer cold. (the ice doesn't get into the beer). It looks like there are 40 glasses of beer in this thing, but it holds only 8 or so.
Sue and John got a taste of Padre Miguel in over 100 degree weather. They probably want to stay far away from now on!
Sue and John also got caught in a tropical thunder and lightning storm on Thursday just after they'd bought an alfaia and rebolo...I have to admit that it was kind of funny running behind John as he ran with his alfaia on his head. Part of it was that I'd never seen him run before. Thank goodness they'd both bought cases. It was weird that once we got onto the Metro, we were the only ones soaking wet. Even the other passengers legs were dry.
Saturday night we were on our own. We were exhausted from the heat and long bus ride, but I heard from Moyseis that there was going to be carnaval in Lapa for free that night. I'd also read about it, so we went. Rio Maracatu was great, we wanted to get close, so we braved the crush. It became way more fun for me when the rain came and cooled us off, and when they launched into songs I actually know. It is a thousand times more fun then! At the end as we were waiting for the final band to start, Moyseis saw me out of thousands of people. I got to meet his pretty wife. We left after a while, I saw some cops being disrespectful to a father and son, but as Bruno said, they probably did something wrong and there is no room in the jails.....so the cops had to make them think twice before they do (whatever) again. I still didn't like the attitude of those cops though. Sue and John had their first hotchee doggees XTudo (with everything). They loved 'em, in fact, since they had beer left over, they got a hamburguer XTudo as well!
Forgot Sunday day!
We went to the beach where John got a sunburn on his legs solely from the reflection off the sand, and then went to the place I've been putting off going to...O Cristo Rendentor.....truly amazing!!!!
Two sundays at Sapucaí
Let's see. Before the computer went out, I think I hadn't yet reported on the sunday before last night's sapucai outing.
The last thing I wrote about is Bruno, and that all came about because I was thinking about how he's always so incredible to his friends and, once again, arranged something I never could have done on my own.
Last sunday he took Sue, John and I to see Mangueira and Viradouro's technical rehearsal on sapucai. I'm a little jaded, and was viewing the whole outing with a bit of trepidation because those two schools have many many rabid fans. I knew it was going to be over the top crowded and difficult, but wanted to go anyway and of course Sue and John wanted to go. What I didn't realize is that the friend Bruno had introduced me to the night before at Mocidade, Delson, was very good friends with the head of security of the Sambódromo. We got to Sapucai and Bruno said we had to wait for a friend who wasn't answering his cell, and I could see the wheels turning in Bruno's head, thinking of an alternate plan....but as things so often happen in Rio, Delson was found at the last minute. I realized that Delson was going to get us into the little section that is 'closed off' to the public (right next to the pista at eye level). There were a few other 'people who know people' there, but we largely had a huge space to ourselves with guys coming by with beer for sale too! A couple of years ago you could just sneak into that area.
Note: These technical rehearsals used to be a lot different; they weren't as crowded, and I was always able to follow the samba schools right ON the pista (floor of the sambodromo, right behind them! I do remember once, though, when I was parading with Mocidade, that some drunk guys right behind me kept stepping on my heels and almost tripped me a few times. They started having to use crowd control methods the more and more popular and well-known the rehearsals became. There's a spot along the edge on the other side of the pista where you can watch from behind a fence that you enter from the food/pagode court, but you kind of have to stay in one spot....and you are packed in like sardines. They had to take a little girl away on a stretcher yesterday because she'd fainted.
Back to the story; don't think that it was easy getting across the pista to get to our little spot of heaven. We had to wait with a hot, impatient crowd of mangueira and viradouro fans in order to get to the first gate. They wanted in! Now! The security guys would let a few people in at a time, but if you wanted to be one of those few people, you had to be willing to take your life into your hands. Indeed, when it was finally our turn, I hoped for the best and went for it. My feet were off the ground, the air was squished right out of me temporarily, and my thumb was caught on the fence somehow behind some guy. Good thing my arms can hyper extend! (the only time I've been grateful for that). At the end of that push, I looked around and was the only one of our group who got through! I waited for the next push and Bruno, his fiancee Michelle, Delson, his wife and little girl got through. Then, Uh Oh....Sue and John. It took some convincing from Delson to let them through to join us. whew! But it was so worth it! Sue said she felt like a rock star as we were swept past the unwashed masses and across the pista to our spot. What a great night! We got to follow the bateria to the 2nd recuo and dance and observe.....
Delson also got us into the spot last night for grande rio and vila isabel. We didn't get to follow the bateria to the recuo this time, but it was still awesome.
I'd been starting to feel really sick and feverish and had to sit down during the break in between grand rio and vila isabel, but when Vila Isabel started, all of a sudden I was well. Bruno loves Vila Isabel and says they cured me. (I felt sick as soon as they were done and am still sick today though!)
The last thing I wrote about is Bruno, and that all came about because I was thinking about how he's always so incredible to his friends and, once again, arranged something I never could have done on my own.
Last sunday he took Sue, John and I to see Mangueira and Viradouro's technical rehearsal on sapucai. I'm a little jaded, and was viewing the whole outing with a bit of trepidation because those two schools have many many rabid fans. I knew it was going to be over the top crowded and difficult, but wanted to go anyway and of course Sue and John wanted to go. What I didn't realize is that the friend Bruno had introduced me to the night before at Mocidade, Delson, was very good friends with the head of security of the Sambódromo. We got to Sapucai and Bruno said we had to wait for a friend who wasn't answering his cell, and I could see the wheels turning in Bruno's head, thinking of an alternate plan....but as things so often happen in Rio, Delson was found at the last minute. I realized that Delson was going to get us into the little section that is 'closed off' to the public (right next to the pista at eye level). There were a few other 'people who know people' there, but we largely had a huge space to ourselves with guys coming by with beer for sale too! A couple of years ago you could just sneak into that area.
Note: These technical rehearsals used to be a lot different; they weren't as crowded, and I was always able to follow the samba schools right ON the pista (floor of the sambodromo, right behind them! I do remember once, though, when I was parading with Mocidade, that some drunk guys right behind me kept stepping on my heels and almost tripped me a few times. They started having to use crowd control methods the more and more popular and well-known the rehearsals became. There's a spot along the edge on the other side of the pista where you can watch from behind a fence that you enter from the food/pagode court, but you kind of have to stay in one spot....and you are packed in like sardines. They had to take a little girl away on a stretcher yesterday because she'd fainted.
Back to the story; don't think that it was easy getting across the pista to get to our little spot of heaven. We had to wait with a hot, impatient crowd of mangueira and viradouro fans in order to get to the first gate. They wanted in! Now! The security guys would let a few people in at a time, but if you wanted to be one of those few people, you had to be willing to take your life into your hands. Indeed, when it was finally our turn, I hoped for the best and went for it. My feet were off the ground, the air was squished right out of me temporarily, and my thumb was caught on the fence somehow behind some guy. Good thing my arms can hyper extend! (the only time I've been grateful for that). At the end of that push, I looked around and was the only one of our group who got through! I waited for the next push and Bruno, his fiancee Michelle, Delson, his wife and little girl got through. Then, Uh Oh....Sue and John. It took some convincing from Delson to let them through to join us. whew! But it was so worth it! Sue said she felt like a rock star as we were swept past the unwashed masses and across the pista to our spot. What a great night! We got to follow the bateria to the 2nd recuo and dance and observe.....
Delson also got us into the spot last night for grande rio and vila isabel. We didn't get to follow the bateria to the recuo this time, but it was still awesome.
I'd been starting to feel really sick and feverish and had to sit down during the break in between grand rio and vila isabel, but when Vila Isabel started, all of a sudden I was well. Bruno loves Vila Isabel and says they cured me. (I felt sick as soon as they were done and am still sick today though!)
Monday, January 26, 2009
It's all about friendship
Little did I imagine that, 7 years ago, when I befriended a 19 year brazilian guy in Portland who was in a work exchange program that my life was going to take such a different turn. What is so great about it is that it didn't take any plotting, or trying to get to know someone who could help me in the future; it was just friendship....pure and simple. Sure I helped Bruno out that first time he was in portland, but he was very independent, so there wasn't that much I could help him with. He's a wonderful funny person and it was a blast to hang out with him and give him a lift somewhere once in a while. It was after he left and was back in brazil I found out that he's a very special kind of person from very special family. When I told him that I was going to go to brazil for the 3rd time, he immediately said, 'come stay with my family. I told them you were good to me in the US, so we want to open our house to you.' I went, (and probably stayed way too long...3 months) and started really learning about brazil, it's culture and people. The family lives in Padre Miguel, the place I'd heard about from another brazilian, my
good friend and godfather of the Lions of Batucada, Jorge Alabê. He lived there and I understood it to be the home of Mocidade, the only samba school I'd heard of up to then. One day I was driving Bruno somewhere, and he casually mentioned that he was one of the leaders of the tamborim section of Mocidade, which Jorge had always said were the best in Rio. I was super impressed and asked him all kinds of questions like, "how easy is it for americans to go play with them?" I remember him telling me that it's known as a 'closed' school. People come up from Estrelinha da Mocidade (the mirins, the children samba school; most of the big schools have them) and eventually make it into the adult version, and he said someone has to die before there's an opening! I thought that made sense and let it go. I wasn't going to try to use him to get in, or even to go rehearse with them...I just let it go.
Ok...ahead to when I get off the plane in Rio and Bruno asks if I'm tired, and says he has a surprise for me. It turned out to be quite a surprise; I went with him to Mocidade's technical rehearsal at the quadra that night thinking that was the surprise....oh no, he brings me a chocalho and asks if I want to play. Before I could freak out too much, I found myself playing chocalho with Mocidade! I was on top of the world! We played for a while, warming up and then we stopped. I was in the back, where Mocidade puts chocalhos for technical rehearsals, but soon realized that way up front people were having to play by one by one while everyone listened. I heard nervous conversation that I didn't understand, until I heard the word 'teste'...gulp! I knew what that meant! Since they had to go through 200 or so people before they got to me, I had plenty of time to think about it...I sweated so much that sweat was rolling down my whole body from my underarms and dripping off...no kidding! They finally got to me. I'd been repeating over and over to myself that I know how to play chocalho so just play, what else could I do? I wasn't prepared for EVERYONE turning around to see the gringa friend of Bruno test for chocalho. They all had smiles on their faces, but still! I played and people were so very kind and congratulated me immediately afterward....WHEW! Now that I know more, I'm sure I wasn't terrible, but I'm also pretty sure I wasn't as great as they acted. That moment was a turning point; from there I rehearsed with them, went to the invitation only party for the bateria, got to parade on Sapucai for a technical rehearsal, and since people got to know that I could play, was asked to join grupos de acesso to fill out their chocalho sections and have gotten to parade on Sapucai 3 times for carnaval. That stuff is all great, but more importantly, I have made some dear friends....I'm a richer person now. Words aren't really sufficient, but I just want to say that Bruno Moraes is a very special person and I'm lucky he's my friend.
good friend and godfather of the Lions of Batucada, Jorge Alabê. He lived there and I understood it to be the home of Mocidade, the only samba school I'd heard of up to then. One day I was driving Bruno somewhere, and he casually mentioned that he was one of the leaders of the tamborim section of Mocidade, which Jorge had always said were the best in Rio. I was super impressed and asked him all kinds of questions like, "how easy is it for americans to go play with them?" I remember him telling me that it's known as a 'closed' school. People come up from Estrelinha da Mocidade (the mirins, the children samba school; most of the big schools have them) and eventually make it into the adult version, and he said someone has to die before there's an opening! I thought that made sense and let it go. I wasn't going to try to use him to get in, or even to go rehearse with them...I just let it go.
Ok...ahead to when I get off the plane in Rio and Bruno asks if I'm tired, and says he has a surprise for me. It turned out to be quite a surprise; I went with him to Mocidade's technical rehearsal at the quadra that night thinking that was the surprise....oh no, he brings me a chocalho and asks if I want to play. Before I could freak out too much, I found myself playing chocalho with Mocidade! I was on top of the world! We played for a while, warming up and then we stopped. I was in the back, where Mocidade puts chocalhos for technical rehearsals, but soon realized that way up front people were having to play by one by one while everyone listened. I heard nervous conversation that I didn't understand, until I heard the word 'teste'...gulp! I knew what that meant! Since they had to go through 200 or so people before they got to me, I had plenty of time to think about it...I sweated so much that sweat was rolling down my whole body from my underarms and dripping off...no kidding! They finally got to me. I'd been repeating over and over to myself that I know how to play chocalho so just play, what else could I do? I wasn't prepared for EVERYONE turning around to see the gringa friend of Bruno test for chocalho. They all had smiles on their faces, but still! I played and people were so very kind and congratulated me immediately afterward....WHEW! Now that I know more, I'm sure I wasn't terrible, but I'm also pretty sure I wasn't as great as they acted. That moment was a turning point; from there I rehearsed with them, went to the invitation only party for the bateria, got to parade on Sapucai for a technical rehearsal, and since people got to know that I could play, was asked to join grupos de acesso to fill out their chocalho sections and have gotten to parade on Sapucai 3 times for carnaval. That stuff is all great, but more importantly, I have made some dear friends....I'm a richer person now. Words aren't really sufficient, but I just want to say that Bruno Moraes is a very special person and I'm lucky he's my friend.
Sunday, January 25, 2009
Mocidade, Guerreira!
(Actually, the title is from last years samba...I like it better than this years'!) Went to Mocidade with Sue, John, Bruno, his fiancee, his family, and his and her extended family. Mocidade sounded great, John and I played on the stage until the wee hours, I had my first 'hotchee dogee' of the trip and then we all had greasy but good coxinhas before hitting the sack at 6am. I only slept for 4 hours, but I expected that. I find it very difficult to sleep in. It was a little bit like old times...me playing chocalho in the row in front of the tamborins, in front of me are my friends playing caixa or surdo: Bruno, Hudson (Alex' brother), Vincent, a great french sambista, who is now 'carioca' and plays tamborim for all the top schools. Vincent used to be part of Sambatuc, a marvelous french samba school that used to and maybe still has as it's puxador, Jean-Christophe, who put a very good dvd on how to play samba (http://www.le-salon-de-musique.com/samba.htm . To make it even better, Renato, Bruno's brother, was also playing caixa. I've never seen him on the palco (stage) playing samba..he's great at that too! (no surprise). John was there ripping on caixa in a little semi circle with these amazing ritmistas and totally holding his own....
Friday, January 23, 2009
Bloco Tamo Junto in Folia
Hi gang, here's a foto from last saturday when I went to the first rehearsal for Tamo Junto. They asked me to play chocalho with them! Most of them are also mocidade or ex, so they know me already. Buda, the tall guy in the foto is a director here and was a long time surdo player for mocidade.
I just looked on their site to see when the next rehearsal is and I hope I'm wrong, but it looks like the rehearsals are going to be the same night as Unidos de Padre Miguel. What a drag! I really liked the vibe here. I'd heard from David, Kathleen and Jacare how blocos were so different from escolas de samba, and now I see it. Way more relaxed, into having fun, very open...Oh well, I hope I'm wrong about the rehearsal days.
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Engarrafamentão, mother of all bottlenecks
I was caught in the biggest bottleneck ever yesterday afternoon...or night....both, I guess! I saw that it was going to rain monday, but no biggie, life goes on, I thought. I'll just take my umbrella to Botafogo for my samba dance class then kill 5 hours, first in Copacabana at my favorite por kilo (restaurant where you pay by the pound). Side note: brazilians normally don't throw away food on their plates; even in their homes, they clean the plate. I've often thought about the difference between their por kilo restaurants and our all you can eat restaurants in the US....elegant versus piggy/gross. We still revel in that 'abundance forever' way of thinking. If we had to pay for it by the pound, I'm sure there would be less wasted....also, if the food was prepared with more care, that might make a difference!
Back to the engarrafamento story: I was then going to go passista platform shoe window shopping at 'Beth's' for the SambaGata dancers in Saara (area in centro where you can buy anything you need or don't need at good to great prices), then walk over for my firstclass/rehearsal for Fina Batucada, the all women's percussion group that I'd been trying to get to since I arrived in Rio. Alas, yet again it was not to be.
It had been raining steadily all day, and I got the feeling that maybe the ride back could be delayed because Avenida Brasil, the highway that I use to get home, might be flooded in spots as it was the other day I was caught in centro in the rain. As I wanted to go to the Mocidade wednesday tech. rehearsal at 9, I thought maybe I should head home at 4. Went to catch an Expresso, a bus that will make stops until it hits the huge Rodovaria (bus station to everywhere), then thankfully speeds on in it's own bus lane on Avenida Brasil, as opposed to a Parada, which makes MAAANY stops). I was pleasantly surprised; I got a seat...wooohooo! the day was going well! I'd had a great dance class, my new dance shoes worked out well; I only slid a little once and got a seat for the 45 minute to 1 hour bus ride home!
The one thing I would be thankful for in the next five hours is that I had a seat. We sat on that bus barely moving for the next 4 hours, crawled for a half an hour and sped like the devil for the other half an hour. Cariocas are some of the most vocal people on the earth, but only when, in their opinions, something could or should be done about a situation. When it can't, they are resigned and some are subdued. Others were resigned and made new friends. I got to read a newspaper from beginning to end that someone was passing around. It was the longest and shortest bus ride in a funny way. I got home, dried off, but cold and sick of sitting on a bus. It was still raining and I didn't want to go back out there yet. Mocidade will be there next week.
I also found out at home that the whole city was locked up in the traffic jam, not just us 'suburbanos' (people who live in the suburbio; way out there...as I like to call it, the 'real brazil'...I'm sorry, I'm prejudiced...don't listen to me!). Indeed, Avenida Brasil was flooded and at one (long) point, no cars were on the highway...it was empty except for lots of water. Thousands upon thousands of people use Ave. Brasil daily. At least there was a reason! When I arrived home, Regina (Bruno and Renato's mom,) had made pea soup and homemade bread! A taste of the US! The bread was perfect and still warm. I had some for dessert too....warm whole wheat bread with butter and honey.
It was a good day.
Back to the engarrafamento story: I was then going to go passista platform shoe window shopping at 'Beth's' for the SambaGata dancers in Saara (area in centro where you can buy anything you need or don't need at good to great prices), then walk over for my firstclass/rehearsal for Fina Batucada, the all women's percussion group that I'd been trying to get to since I arrived in Rio. Alas, yet again it was not to be.
It had been raining steadily all day, and I got the feeling that maybe the ride back could be delayed because Avenida Brasil, the highway that I use to get home, might be flooded in spots as it was the other day I was caught in centro in the rain. As I wanted to go to the Mocidade wednesday tech. rehearsal at 9, I thought maybe I should head home at 4. Went to catch an Expresso, a bus that will make stops until it hits the huge Rodovaria (bus station to everywhere), then thankfully speeds on in it's own bus lane on Avenida Brasil, as opposed to a Parada, which makes MAAANY stops). I was pleasantly surprised; I got a seat...wooohooo! the day was going well! I'd had a great dance class, my new dance shoes worked out well; I only slid a little once and got a seat for the 45 minute to 1 hour bus ride home!
The one thing I would be thankful for in the next five hours is that I had a seat. We sat on that bus barely moving for the next 4 hours, crawled for a half an hour and sped like the devil for the other half an hour. Cariocas are some of the most vocal people on the earth, but only when, in their opinions, something could or should be done about a situation. When it can't, they are resigned and some are subdued. Others were resigned and made new friends. I got to read a newspaper from beginning to end that someone was passing around. It was the longest and shortest bus ride in a funny way. I got home, dried off, but cold and sick of sitting on a bus. It was still raining and I didn't want to go back out there yet. Mocidade will be there next week.
I also found out at home that the whole city was locked up in the traffic jam, not just us 'suburbanos' (people who live in the suburbio; way out there...as I like to call it, the 'real brazil'...I'm sorry, I'm prejudiced...don't listen to me!). Indeed, Avenida Brasil was flooded and at one (long) point, no cars were on the highway...it was empty except for lots of water. Thousands upon thousands of people use Ave. Brasil daily. At least there was a reason! When I arrived home, Regina (Bruno and Renato's mom,) had made pea soup and homemade bread! A taste of the US! The bread was perfect and still warm. I had some for dessert too....warm whole wheat bread with butter and honey.
It was a good day.
Monday, January 19, 2009
I hung out with amaro!
I forgot to mention
All you pagode gang out there, I had lunch at Amaro's and hung out on the beach with him. He misses us all a lot, but also loves Rio....it kind of sounds like he won't be coming back soon. You never know though! He looks good and is waiting to hear from some publication about his work so that he can go do the last step. He's kind of in limbo (albeit a limbo that is located in Lapa, bars in Gavea and Ipanema beach!) poor devil! I'm going to go to Lapa with Sue and John to see his show on the 30th.
All you pagode gang out there, I had lunch at Amaro's and hung out on the beach with him. He misses us all a lot, but also loves Rio....it kind of sounds like he won't be coming back soon. You never know though! He looks good and is waiting to hear from some publication about his work so that he can go do the last step. He's kind of in limbo (albeit a limbo that is located in Lapa, bars in Gavea and Ipanema beach!) poor devil! I'm going to go to Lapa with Sue and John to see his show on the 30th.
singin' in the rain
I know that many other americans think the way I do about the sound of english....almost every other language sounds sexier or at least more exotic than ours. After being here for a little over a week, I stopped kind of shuddering when I'd catch myself saying something in portuguese with an american accent (or maybe just shuddered internally), but I still didn't like it at all. I don't like being ashamed of what I am, but next to portuguese, english is pretty flat and close mouthed (?). Well, I now I need not be ashamed! When we were leaving sapucai and it was still raining hard on us, Bruno started 'Singing in the Rain', Michelle joined in and Mafalda tried to. I continued singing the parts they didn't know and they were all smiles. Bruno said that it was so cool to hear that song in an american accent, because it just isn't the same otherwise. Well! I guess it's all how you look at it.
Sapucai done the brazilian way
ps. sapucaí is what cariocas call the sambodromo
Whatta blast I had last night!
My brazilian brother Bruno, who is now living in Botafogo, is far away from Padre Miguel where I'm staying with his family, the wonderful Moraes, and is really busy: moving into a new condominium, setting up the new place, having it painted and repaired, working full time AND going to night classes for his MBA. So, needless to say, I hadn't really been able to hang out with him a lot. He got the new place together last week, so yesterday he and his fiancee Michelle picked me up and took me to Botafogo to swim and have a steam bath. I joked that we could have just gone outside in Bangu (note: padre miguel/bangu, where I live, is known as the 'hell' (temperature wise) of Rio) for the steam bath. It was fun though and the guys had a nice shave....do guys do that in the US too? I had a great time swimming by myself before they arrived...just floating around feeling quite content and cooled off for a change.
We were killing time before we went to Sapucai, that kind of being the point of the evening. I'd gone by myself once and once with bruno before to watch him in Grande Rio, but I was by myself, really, the second time as well because he was playing tamborim. This third time, with Bruno, Michelle and Mafalda...which is a nick name, I confess I don't know his real name even though I've known him quite a while...was by far the best. The schools were Vila Isabel and Salgueiro. i was able to record some of vila isabel, but a huge downpour started before Salgueiro that wouldn't give up and I didn't want to wreck my recorder. Mafalda gallantly took his shirt off so that I could cover my backpack with it to protect the recorder (it worked!). I wasn't close enough to bruno to hear his commentary on, well, everything....he is truly a walking encyclopedia on samba schools, and everything connected with them. He's very humble about it, but it is the truth. We drank lots of beer. I normally don't drink much, but I felt really safe...Bruno knows all the tricks; he's been going to Sapucai since he was a teeny little baby. They kept filling my beer cup...don't bother telling a brazilian that you don't want to drink anymore. they'll fill it up anyway. I gave in and, standing there in the rain, soaking wet, loving everyone and everything was just what I needed. I'd been a little down due to the heat and slight stomach troubles. I'm better now. I tested my stomach out yesterday with the beer and a frango plok....it was soooo good! I'm not exactly sure what it was. I know what frango is, (chicken) so it must have been the plok that sent it over the edge! Yummy! Gostoso!
I went to mocidade saturday night by myself but ended up seeing old faces and got to go up to the stage for the first part of the evening....right up front! Since Bruno is out of mocidade now, it usually takes some scheming, but it was as smooth as butter, probably because I wasn't expecting it!
The bateria was missing some (almost all) their key people due to a show on the same night which used all the best players. The poor guy on the primeiro was either behind or ahead, and then the huge guy that replaced him was overly enthusiastic and ended up breaking the head....
There were mostly new passistas, but a few of the women and quite a few of the men were excellent. The men passistas from mocidade are usually great and they didn't disappoint...wow!
comments are welcome!
Whatta blast I had last night!
My brazilian brother Bruno, who is now living in Botafogo, is far away from Padre Miguel where I'm staying with his family, the wonderful Moraes, and is really busy: moving into a new condominium, setting up the new place, having it painted and repaired, working full time AND going to night classes for his MBA. So, needless to say, I hadn't really been able to hang out with him a lot. He got the new place together last week, so yesterday he and his fiancee Michelle picked me up and took me to Botafogo to swim and have a steam bath. I joked that we could have just gone outside in Bangu (note: padre miguel/bangu, where I live, is known as the 'hell' (temperature wise) of Rio) for the steam bath. It was fun though and the guys had a nice shave....do guys do that in the US too? I had a great time swimming by myself before they arrived...just floating around feeling quite content and cooled off for a change.
We were killing time before we went to Sapucai, that kind of being the point of the evening. I'd gone by myself once and once with bruno before to watch him in Grande Rio, but I was by myself, really, the second time as well because he was playing tamborim. This third time, with Bruno, Michelle and Mafalda...which is a nick name, I confess I don't know his real name even though I've known him quite a while...was by far the best. The schools were Vila Isabel and Salgueiro. i was able to record some of vila isabel, but a huge downpour started before Salgueiro that wouldn't give up and I didn't want to wreck my recorder. Mafalda gallantly took his shirt off so that I could cover my backpack with it to protect the recorder (it worked!). I wasn't close enough to bruno to hear his commentary on, well, everything....he is truly a walking encyclopedia on samba schools, and everything connected with them. He's very humble about it, but it is the truth. We drank lots of beer. I normally don't drink much, but I felt really safe...Bruno knows all the tricks; he's been going to Sapucai since he was a teeny little baby. They kept filling my beer cup...don't bother telling a brazilian that you don't want to drink anymore. they'll fill it up anyway. I gave in and, standing there in the rain, soaking wet, loving everyone and everything was just what I needed. I'd been a little down due to the heat and slight stomach troubles. I'm better now. I tested my stomach out yesterday with the beer and a frango plok....it was soooo good! I'm not exactly sure what it was. I know what frango is, (chicken) so it must have been the plok that sent it over the edge! Yummy! Gostoso!
I went to mocidade saturday night by myself but ended up seeing old faces and got to go up to the stage for the first part of the evening....right up front! Since Bruno is out of mocidade now, it usually takes some scheming, but it was as smooth as butter, probably because I wasn't expecting it!
The bateria was missing some (almost all) their key people due to a show on the same night which used all the best players. The poor guy on the primeiro was either behind or ahead, and then the huge guy that replaced him was overly enthusiastic and ended up breaking the head....
There were mostly new passistas, but a few of the women and quite a few of the men were excellent. The men passistas from mocidade are usually great and they didn't disappoint...wow!
comments are welcome!
Thursday, January 15, 2009
First paragraph is a repeat of an email. Second is new stuff
it's been super hot here. it was kind of funny, because I just thought that maybe my blood thickened in portland because the heat here was so hard to take. I checked online tonight and 38C is friggin 100.4 F ! no wonder! It was 89.6 at 9:30 am today. I saw on someones facebook that the sun was out...good for you guys. I went to a favela (Vila Vintem) around here to rehearse for a samba school last night and there were three young guys standing there with huge guns...kind of weird, this happy samba music and those kids standing there with their guns and these deadly serious expressions. still, they reminded me of little kids playing gangster. It's supposed to be really dangerous to walk around in this particular favela, but I think that most people just thought it was a little bit amusing that I'd do it. Last night was a little slim as far as bateria, but boy, with 8 chocalhos, 5 strong tamborim players, 8 caixas and about 6 surdos, it was dynamic anyway. Those tamborins were so great, it felt like my chocalho was playing itself. we played around two hours straight, but I'm not sore in the least. I don't know what it is... I do know that the way samba enredos are set up, the chocalhos play to the point of kind of wishing it would stop, but only to that point, then we get a nice long break, then play in short spurts, then the long one again, and repeat repeat repeat the whole cycle. we practiced turning corners, which is a nice thing to know how to do if you're parading.
I went to hear mocidade's technical rehearsal at the quadra...things have changed a lot. Many of the strong players left a few years ago due to 'misunderstandings' with the directorate. These musicians are still 'mocidade', and may come back once there's a different mestre, some different directors and especially different president, but it's been a few years and many are already entrenched in other schools. I have feeling they will come back; it's a lot more convenient to play in your own neighborhood! I 'm going to go again saturday to check it out because some of the great players who are still with mocidade will be there.
I'm going to Unidos do Padre Miguel, (where ex-Mocidade ritmistas go to play) to rehearse on friday. It's kind of like a job; I'd wanted to go to Sapucai to see Imperio Serrano rehearse, but I have to learn breaks and sign in at Unidos....so that's where I'll be, I guess....I could have a worse life, huh? heheh
I went to hear mocidade's technical rehearsal at the quadra...things have changed a lot. Many of the strong players left a few years ago due to 'misunderstandings' with the directorate. These musicians are still 'mocidade', and may come back once there's a different mestre, some different directors and especially different president, but it's been a few years and many are already entrenched in other schools. I have feeling they will come back; it's a lot more convenient to play in your own neighborhood! I 'm going to go again saturday to check it out because some of the great players who are still with mocidade will be there.
I'm going to Unidos do Padre Miguel, (where ex-Mocidade ritmistas go to play) to rehearse on friday. It's kind of like a job; I'd wanted to go to Sapucai to see Imperio Serrano rehearse, but I have to learn breaks and sign in at Unidos....so that's where I'll be, I guess....I could have a worse life, huh? heheh
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
More fun, Less sleep
I wonder if I'll fall to the floor asleep in mid-sentence, or maybe when I'm crossing the street. I really have to get a normal amount of sleep some night. I'm not trying to say that my life is one big carnaval of thrills a minute. I just can't sleep at night and then I wake up early. Yes, there was the night the devil dog next door kept me up all night...or last night when Renato brought all the members of his samba pagode group back to his house and they were up until dawn and then one of them decided that 8am is a great time to play the drum set a little bit. Ya gotta forgive them though...they'd opened for Arlindo Cruz at a great theater with great sound in Rio (Teatro Rival), and they're all 18 or younger. I don't know...hopefully I'll be near something soft, preferably a bed, when body takes over and decides I need to sleep.
I went to said show last night and was very happy to be able to sing along to many of the songs...thanks Jorge, brazil camp and the samba pagode gang at Skavones! I was especially happy that I knew 'nao deixa a samba morrer' . What a blast to sing it with a lot of brazilians!
I'll write more later. I have to lie in bed and not sleep for quite a while. Good Night!
I went to said show last night and was very happy to be able to sing along to many of the songs...thanks Jorge, brazil camp and the samba pagode gang at Skavones! I was especially happy that I knew 'nao deixa a samba morrer' . What a blast to sing it with a lot of brazilians!
I'll write more later. I have to lie in bed and not sleep for quite a while. Good Night!
Saturday, January 10, 2009
Blisters and Bus rides
I forgot about the first few days here and blisters from chinelos! (flip flops) How could I have forgotten? I started out on one of my many long walking trips (this time to buy shampoo, toothpaste and a chip for my phone) to the calçadão of Bangu (big sidewalk shopping area) that has this covered area in the middle that protects you from the rain, but more importantly, has a
very heavenly light and refreshing mist that shoots out intermittently....brazilians know how to live, don't they?
Anyway, back to the blisters...I forgot that if you aren't used to wearing chinelos and are walking a lot....my purpose had been to get personal hygiene products, but now I had to find chinelos that fit and didn't have a strap in the same spot as my blisters (and they had to be cheap because I'd have to buy different colors). I got one pair that I thought would fit the bill, but they ended up being worse than the first pair; I then had to go look for another pair that didn't touch the blisters that this second pair made...you get the picture. I did have a good time meeting new shop people though. I'm the only gringa for miles, so when I use my ice breaker, " Sou americana, não falo português muito bem...", they get this smile on their face and I get the feeling that I made their day. I know I have that same smile and willingness to help when a foreigner asks me for help in portland. That's another thing, in Bangu, I've never minded telling people I'm from the US. Out here, people tend to be very protective of me.
I'd also forgotten about the engarrafamentos (bottle necks that go on forever). I wanted to go to Mangueira's ensaio tecnico, and I was supposed to meet Bruno and another good friend there. I kind of slipped into the relaxed way of life here and left the house a little late. Not a good idea, as there was a not only the huge traffic tie-up, but a car had overturned shortly after my stop.
Once we finally approached the avenida, we pulled the cord for the busdriver to stop...no way. this dude took us way past sapucaí, which elicited at first, mild, "hey stop!", "where are you taking us" to my favorite new swear phrase, "this 'puto do motorista' is crazy". Not exactly grammatical, but we all got the idea. We were all instant friends as we walked the few long blocks back to the avenue, agreeing with each other as to the dastardly-ness of the bus driver (I actually just looked very put out and shook my head in disbelief with them. My portuguese isn't that good yet). Anyway, I arrived super late, which was a bummer not only was I was supposed to meet my friend who does sound on the avenue, but I had a mangueira shirt from Renato who played guitar on Mangueira's carro de som last year that would have granted me entrance to the pista (the actual avenue, not the stands). Needless to say, I arrived very late (they hadn't started, but had already closed the avenue off) and I couldn't call my sound guy friend Hudson and fix it because my stupid new chip in my phone wasn't activated yet. At least I could stay close to the bateria and record their esquentimento (warm-up), and record their caixa feel. By the way, 99% play it hand over hand and they blast out those first two hits 1 E , as well as & A of 2; they're almost equal. Anyway, I need to read the manual for my zoom, because I didn't have it at the right setting and it was waaaay too loud. sucks. The other thing is that it was so overloaded with sound, that the little meter wasn't moving and I thought I hadn't recorded anything, in fact when I checked, it didn't show that track. Kind of bummed, I went to sit in the stands with the rest of the cattle and heard a couple of great breaks which I wished I could've recorded...I didn't try to remember because I was worried about my zoom, already planning on emailing Sue and John and asking them to bring me a new one. When I got home, I checked again, took the batteries out and put them back in, and voilá, the track was there, I'll try to fix it, because it is kind of muddled and hurts your ears.
Ok, enough for today, I've got to take a shower, it's starting to heat up here and I'm sweating already. It's 11am my time 5am your time.
beijos
very heavenly light and refreshing mist that shoots out intermittently....brazilians know how to live, don't they?
Anyway, back to the blisters...I forgot that if you aren't used to wearing chinelos and are walking a lot....my purpose had been to get personal hygiene products, but now I had to find chinelos that fit and didn't have a strap in the same spot as my blisters (and they had to be cheap because I'd have to buy different colors). I got one pair that I thought would fit the bill, but they ended up being worse than the first pair; I then had to go look for another pair that didn't touch the blisters that this second pair made...you get the picture. I did have a good time meeting new shop people though. I'm the only gringa for miles, so when I use my ice breaker, " Sou americana, não falo português muito bem...", they get this smile on their face and I get the feeling that I made their day. I know I have that same smile and willingness to help when a foreigner asks me for help in portland. That's another thing, in Bangu, I've never minded telling people I'm from the US. Out here, people tend to be very protective of me.
I'd also forgotten about the engarrafamentos (bottle necks that go on forever). I wanted to go to Mangueira's ensaio tecnico, and I was supposed to meet Bruno and another good friend there. I kind of slipped into the relaxed way of life here and left the house a little late. Not a good idea, as there was a not only the huge traffic tie-up, but a car had overturned shortly after my stop.
Once we finally approached the avenida, we pulled the cord for the busdriver to stop...no way. this dude took us way past sapucaí, which elicited at first, mild, "hey stop!", "where are you taking us" to my favorite new swear phrase, "this 'puto do motorista' is crazy". Not exactly grammatical, but we all got the idea. We were all instant friends as we walked the few long blocks back to the avenue, agreeing with each other as to the dastardly-ness of the bus driver (I actually just looked very put out and shook my head in disbelief with them. My portuguese isn't that good yet). Anyway, I arrived super late, which was a bummer not only was I was supposed to meet my friend who does sound on the avenue, but I had a mangueira shirt from Renato who played guitar on Mangueira's carro de som last year that would have granted me entrance to the pista (the actual avenue, not the stands). Needless to say, I arrived very late (they hadn't started, but had already closed the avenue off) and I couldn't call my sound guy friend Hudson and fix it because my stupid new chip in my phone wasn't activated yet. At least I could stay close to the bateria and record their esquentimento (warm-up), and record their caixa feel. By the way, 99% play it hand over hand and they blast out those first two hits 1 E , as well as & A of 2; they're almost equal. Anyway, I need to read the manual for my zoom, because I didn't have it at the right setting and it was waaaay too loud. sucks. The other thing is that it was so overloaded with sound, that the little meter wasn't moving and I thought I hadn't recorded anything, in fact when I checked, it didn't show that track. Kind of bummed, I went to sit in the stands with the rest of the cattle and heard a couple of great breaks which I wished I could've recorded...I didn't try to remember because I was worried about my zoom, already planning on emailing Sue and John and asking them to bring me a new one. When I got home, I checked again, took the batteries out and put them back in, and voilá, the track was there, I'll try to fix it, because it is kind of muddled and hurts your ears.
Ok, enough for today, I've got to take a shower, it's starting to heat up here and I'm sweating already. It's 11am my time 5am your time.
beijos
Friday, January 9, 2009
Who is Arlindo Cruz Anyway?
Maybe some of you are wondering why I was so impressed by my little brazilian brother Renato and what he's been up to. Here's a little wiki and Pauline info on Arlindo Cruz, one of my idols!
Arlindo Cruz (b. September 14, 1958, birth name Arlindo Domingos da Cruz Filho) is a Brazilian musician, composer and singer, working in the genre of samba and pagode. Arlindo took part in the most important formation of Grupo Fundo de Quintal, and is considered by many Brazilians to be the most important figures in samba pagode today.
Biography
At the age of seven, Arlindo was given his first musical instrument, the cavaquinho, by his father (Arlindão), a friend and partner of Candeia with whom he had founded the Mensageiros do Samba group. From 7 to 12 years, Arlindo already played by ear, learning chord voicings from his brother Acyr Marques guitar playing. At 12, he went on to study classical guitar for 2 years with the Flor do Méier institution. About that time he started working professionally as a musician, in rodas de samba with various artists, especially Candeia who he considers to be his musical godfather. With Candeia he recorded a simple compact and an LP called `Roda de Samba', playing cavaquinho.With Jorge Aragão leaving Grupo Fundo de Quintal, Arlindo was invited to join the group, an invitation which he accepted happily, dedicating himself during 12 years of success. Arlindo played the banjo cavaquinho in the group and was one of the lead voices and songwriters, along with singer/songwriter Sombrinha, who played cavaquinho and guitar. Arlindo Cruz has over 450 songs recorded by various artists, including Zeca, Beth Carvalho,Almir Guineto and Maria Rita. He later joined his old partner Sombrinha in a quite successful partnership, Arlindo Cruz & Sombrinha, which lasted until ca. 2005. Today Arlindo Cruz proceeds in solo career, which, after his hit Madureira, is hot.
Arlindo Cruz (b. September 14, 1958, birth name Arlindo Domingos da Cruz Filho) is a Brazilian musician, composer and singer, working in the genre of samba and pagode. Arlindo took part in the most important formation of Grupo Fundo de Quintal, and is considered by many Brazilians to be the most important figures in samba pagode today.
Biography
At the age of seven, Arlindo was given his first musical instrument, the cavaquinho, by his father (Arlindão), a friend and partner of Candeia with whom he had founded the Mensageiros do Samba group. From 7 to 12 years, Arlindo already played by ear, learning chord voicings from his brother Acyr Marques guitar playing. At 12, he went on to study classical guitar for 2 years with the Flor do Méier institution. About that time he started working professionally as a musician, in rodas de samba with various artists, especially Candeia who he considers to be his musical godfather. With Candeia he recorded a simple compact and an LP called `Roda de Samba', playing cavaquinho.With Jorge Aragão leaving Grupo Fundo de Quintal, Arlindo was invited to join the group, an invitation which he accepted happily, dedicating himself during 12 years of success. Arlindo played the banjo cavaquinho in the group and was one of the lead voices and songwriters, along with singer/songwriter Sombrinha, who played cavaquinho and guitar. Arlindo Cruz has over 450 songs recorded by various artists, including Zeca, Beth Carvalho,
Hit the ground running. Arlindo Cruz, my brazilian family and Samba Pagode
went out last night with Renato and his mom to see renato's samba pagode group Bambas de Berço play but first went to arlindo's cruz' house to hang out before the gig...amazing! Arlindo said he'd take me to imperio serrano with him....he'd asked me my favorite school and I said mocidade so he gave me a hard time, of course, because he's staunchly imperio serrano. His wife, though, loved it because she was a porta bandeira for mocidade for years back in the day. I told him I liked imperio as my second favorite because my last name is serrano (it is the truth! I wasn't just trying to get on his good side). I was hanging out at his house because his son arlindinho, is one of the singers and banjo player for Bambas de Berço. they're great, made up of famous guys sons; it's really opened doors for them, but they have the talent to back it up. Arlindo got up on stage and sang with them last night....heavenly! other convidados: Tony Garrido, and then Andrezinho of mocidade, ex-grupo Molejo also Mestre Andre's son. what a blast....we left around 3am. I was so proud of my irmãozinho Renato! I'd only had 4 hours of sleep since tuesday night, so slept like a log last night!
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